In a groundbreaking achievement for Pakistan and the global mountaineering community, Sirbaz Khan has become the first Pakistani climber to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without the aid of supplemental oxygen. This remarkable feat places him among an elite group of mountaineers who have accomplished this challenging endeavor.

A Journey of Sirbaz Khan from Humble Beginnings

Hailing from Aliabad in Hunza Valley, Sirbaz Khan’s ascent into the world of high-altitude mountaineering began over a decade ago. Starting his career as a porter and kitchen helper, Khan’s dedication and passion for climbing propelled him to the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters) in 2017. This achievement marked the beginning of his illustrious journey, culminating in his latest success at Shishapangma (8,027 meters) in Tibet in October 2024 .

Conquering the World’s Highest Peaks

Khan’s mountaineering accomplishments are a testament to his resilience and determination. Some of his notable summits include:

  • K2 (8,611 meters): In 2018, Khan reached the summit of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain, without supplemental oxygen. K2 is renowned for its extreme difficulty and high fatality rate, making this achievement particularly significant.
  • Everest (8,849 meters): Khan summited Mount Everest, the highest peak on Earth, twice—once in 2021 and again in 2024—both times without supplemental oxygen. His 2024 ascent was part of the Imagine Nepal 2024 Everest Expedition, which included 14 international climbers and 18 Sherpas .
  • Shishapangma (8,027 meters): In October 2024, Khan successfully reached the summit of Shishapangma, becoming the first Pakistani to complete all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen .

Recognition and Impact

Khan’s achievements have garnered widespread acclaim within the mountaineering community. Renowned Pakistani alpinist Naila Kiani lauded his accomplishment, stating, “History has been made.” Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, emphasized that Khan’s journey exemplifies “the power of perseverance and meticulous preparation,” solidifying his place in mountaineering history .

Beyond personal accolades, Khan’s success serves as an inspiration to aspiring climbers, particularly in Pakistan, where mountaineering has traditionally been dominated by international climbers. His accomplishments highlight the potential for local talent to excel on the global stage.

Looking Ahead

As of 2025, Sirbaz Khan continues to inspire and lead by example. His journey underscores the importance of perseverance, preparation, and passion in achieving seemingly insurmountable goals. For aspiring mountaineers and sports enthusiasts in Pakistan and beyond, Khan’s story is a beacon of possibility, demonstrating that with determination and hard work, extraordinary feats can be accomplished.

In summary, Sirbaz Khan’s unparalleled achievements in high-altitude mountaineering not only bring pride to Pakistan but also contribute to the global legacy of mountaineering excellence. His story is a testament to the human spirit’s capacity to overcome challenges and reach new heights.

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